The gardens were arranged to emulate those of Versailles, and amidst

the terraces and groves there are some huge allegorical waterworks

still, which spout and froth stupendously upon fete-days, and frighten

one with their enormous aquatic insurrections. There is the

Trophonius' cave in which, by some artifice, the leaden Tritons are

made not only to spout water, but to play the most dreadful groans out

of their lead conchs--there is the nymphbath and the Niagara cataract,

which the people of the neighbourhood admire beyond expression, when

they come to the yearly fair at the opening of the Chamber, or to the

fetes with which the happy little nation still celebrates the birthdays

and marriage-days of its princely governors.

Then from all the towns of the Duchy, which stretches for nearly ten

mile--from Bolkum, which lies on its western frontier bidding defiance

to Prussia, from Grogwitz, where the Prince has a hunting-lodge, and

where his dominions are separated by the Pump River from those of the

neighbouring Prince of Potzenthal; from all the little villages, which

besides these three great cities, dot over the happy principality--from

the farms and the mills along the Pump come troops of people in red

petticoats and velvet head-dresses, or with three-cornered hats and

pipes in their mouths, who flock to the Residenz and share in the

pleasures of the fair and the festivities there. Then the theatre is

open for nothing, then the waters of Monblaisir begin to play (it is

lucky that there is company to behold them, for one would be afraid to

see them alone)--then there come mountebanks and riding troops (the way

in which his Transparency was fascinated by one of the horse-riders is

well known, and it is believed that La Petite Vivandiere, as she was

called, was a spy in the French interest), and the delighted people are

permitted to march through room after room of the Grand Ducal palace

and admire the slippery floor, the rich hangings, and the spittoons at

the doors of all the innumerable chambers. There is one Pavilion at

Monblaisir which Aurelius Victor XV had arranged--a great Prince but

too fond of pleasure--and which I am told is a perfect wonder of

licentious elegance. It is painted with the story of Bacchus and

Ariadne, and the table works in and out of the room by means of a

windlass, so that the company was served without any intervention of

domestics. But the place was shut up by Barbara, Aurelius XV's widow,

a severe and devout Princess of the House of Bolkum and Regent of the

Duchy during her son's glorious minority, and after the death of her

husband, cut off in the pride of his pleasures.

The theatre of Pumpernickel is known and famous in that quarter of

Germany. It languished a little when the present Duke in his youth

insisted upon having his own operas played there, and it is said one

day, in a fury, from his place in the orchestra, when he attended a

rehearsal, broke a bassoon on the head of the Chapel Master, who was

conducting, and led too slow; and during which time the Duchess Sophia

wrote domestic comedies, which must have been very dreary to witness.

But the Prince executes his music in private now, and the Duchess only

gives away her plays to the foreigners of distinction who visit her

kind little Court.




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